I had heard many positive comments about Serbia and Bosnia Herzegovina, especially about Sarajevo. Many praised these countries beautiful. First I thought that it would be safest to buy a tour but the price was too expensive. Little by little I was convinced that I could make this trip by myself. So I bought the flight tickets and booked hotels. I took the flight to Budapest where I stayed the first night at the Gellért Hotel. I had bought the train ticket from Budapest to Novi Sad that I printed on the machine at the station before stepping into the train.
The journey took many hours but I had something to read. I also observed the scenery, the vast pusta on the way. There were many huge sun flower and corn fields. I saw some villages, different birds and domestic animals. I went to enjoy a piccolo bottle of sparking wine in the restaurant wagon. When I arrived to Novi Sad, there was still day light. The hotel was not far away from the station, so I could walk there and see the street life on the way. Many families were out.
The hotel was a lovely, small hotel Planeta Inn. The service was excellent. I had a shower and after that I headed to the old town nearby. The evening was warm and many people were out. I found the old town very pleasant. I passed some time in the park. I had a pistachio ice cream and finally I had the dinner at the local food restaurant. The food was tasty and the local wine complemented it. I spoke with the people at the table next door.
At the morning after breakfast I took a taxi to the fortress of Novi Sad. The place reminded me of the Suomenlinna fortress in the front of Helsinki. It had very much the same style and both of them are from the 18th century. This fortress stands on the river bank and it was made by the French architects. I studied exhibitions and the construction of the fortress, before all the well. Then I walked via the old town to the hotel. I was time to go to the station to catch the train to Belgrad.
Belgrad was a big city after Novi Sad. I had a nice hotel, Queen's Astoria Design, close to the station. After a quick shower I walked to the city center. I saw some beautiful old buildings. The historical museum was under construction. I found the street of old city that I was recommended at the reception. There were restaurants side by side. I chose the second oldest restaurant of Belgrad, DVA Jelena and ordered the famous meal with a glass of local wine. While eating on the terrace there was a band playing the traditional music at the street.
At the morning I visited the famous fortress of Belgrad and some churches.
In the afternoon I took the minibus to Sarajevo. It took many hours to travel from Belgrad to Sarajevo. The border was the river. The landscape changed in Bosnia Herzegovina. Now there were mountains. I had already seen in Serbia some damaged houses, because of the war in 1990's. Here I saw some more. Next to me was sitting a lady who had left the area about 14 years ago. So much had changed according to her. She had lived in Germany and now she was living with her family in Belgrad. It was interesting to hear her memories, wishes and opinions.
Sarajevo is surrounded by mountains. It was a view when we arrived to Sarajevo from the mountains. I was the second one who was dropped to the hotel. This time I had chosen the Isa Begov Hamam Hotel, renovated recently. Once again I had a walking distance to the old quarters. It had started to rain just before Sarajevo and now there was a thunderstorm. Anyway, I had to eat, so I chose the local restaurant on the other side of the river, very close to the hotel and recommended by them. I liked the lamb soup and fresh bread.
After a good sleep and the excellent balkan breakfast I went around the city according to my plan on the map. I started on the spot were the Archduke of Austria Frans Ferdinand was assassinated and which launched the First World War. Then I visited the synagog of Sarajevo and heart the hard history of Jews of the city. After that I visited the orthodox church, the food markets and wondered the marques of the firing on the facade of the defense ministery. Then I stepped to the Catholic church where I was able to take part in a music session. In the front of the church there was a statue of the Pope John Paul II who visited Sarajevo. I found the old synagog which now served as a museum. Finally I wanted to visit mosque in this Balkan Jerusalem, but it was closed. I had to return later. After this interesting tour I spent some time in the bazaar where I enjoyed the balkan coffee.
At the hotel I prepared to go to the hamam. I was in the hot pool and steam room alone. It was lovely! The surroundings were beautifully made. In the dressing room there were two friendly ladies from Dubai. The other lady gave me some body cream and even sprayed some perfume. After hamam I was so relaxed and clean.
Before dinner I went to see an exhibition of the war time. There were very impressive posters and photos. After that I could visit the mosque. Sarajevo was established by the Ottomans on the 15th century and many buildings were constructed on the 16th century, like this Ghazi Khusraw-Bay mosque.
During my last day before taking the minibus back to Belgrad I visited the museum of Sarajevo and the rebuild City Hall. My hotel and mosque nearby were totally destroyed during the war but they were rebuilt. There was a good series of photos taken of the ruins and reconstruction work on the walls of the hall before breakfast room.
I was picked up from the hotel but six others needed to be found. It took for a while but at the same time I had a sightseeing tour. I saw different parts of the city and also less attractive suburbs. This time the way back in Bosnia Herzegovina was a little bit different, not that picturesque as on arrival via mountains. Next to me was sitting a young man from Sarajevo who was moving to Moscow to work there. He was working in finance sector. He was very energetic and had strong opinions about politics. I didn't have any boring companion.
In Belgrad I had the same hotel, so I was quite familiar with the place. I had an evening walk and had a soup and wine in a nice local restaurant. There were many smoking clients which was a little bit disturbing but the staff was friendly and funny. I returned to the hotel because at the morning I had an early flight back home. The ordered taxi took me to the airport but it had to stop on the way because of strange noise in the back. The driver took a big watermelon to the front seat. For me it was time to say good-bye to Serbia.